Timber floor sanding and polishing specialist - European oak, Parquetry ,laying, direct staining,liming, finishes with nontoxic natural oil, tung oil, hard wax, waterbase etc. ...................... Melbourne Australia
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Process
A standard sized residential floor of around 70m2 will take three to four days to sand and polish 
and another 3 to five days of drying before you can move your furniture back. Different finishes take different amounts of time.
Site preparation by house owner
- Please ensure that normal electrical and water supplies are accessible at the premises for us
- All furniture should be removed, together with all floor coverings including carpet, vinyl, tiles etc. Don't forget staples, tacks and gule. If need be, Myflooring provides a complete coverings removal service.
- For best results, seal access areas such as vents, fireplaces and windows that may allow dust to enter the room. Masking tape and paper is fine.
- Ideally, we recommend that all painting except the final coat on skirting boards be completed. The final coat can be applied to the skirting boards after the floor work is complete. This elimiates the need to touch up the skirting paint in the case of minor scuff marks occuring.
Floor refinishing by Myflooring
- Punching & puttying : We countersink floor nails below the surface of the timber. Nail holes and small knots are filled with appropriate colored putty.
- Sanding: Sanding an existing wood floor usually consists of three to four passes. Each pass is done with a different grit of sand paper, with a final pass using a very fine 100 - 120 grit, depending on the type of wood being sanded. We stock sandpapers with grits of: 24, 36, 40, 60, 80, 100 and 120. The lower the number the coarser the grit. we select the proper combination of sandpapers needed for the job.
- Finishing: Generally, finishing a hardwood floor takes three coats applied over a period of three to four days. Temperature and other environment conditions can add one or two extra days to drying time. After the floors are sanded and cleaned, we apply the first coat of primer or stain (depending upon the desired finish). We allow the coat to dry overnight and when it is ready we apply the second coat of chosen finish. The second coat of finish is applied with a fine grit sandpaper (100 - 120 grit) to knock down the grain and to create a surface that will allow the next coat to adhere properly and allowed to dry overnight. The final coat is applied when the second coat is ready. The detailed treatment and three coats of finish creates a beautiful hardwood floor that will last for years.
- Staining(coloring): In most cases, it is preferable to maintain the natural color of hardwood floors by using a clear finish. However, if you want a specific colour or shade different from the natural wood colour, or the natural wood color varies too much, we'll work with you to select a finish or stain to suit your needs.
- Curing: Solvent based floor coatings dry within 24 hours and take approximately 10 to 14 days to fully harden. It is important to follow these guidelines:
- if necessary you can walk on the floor in stocks after 24 hours. Avoid walking on the surface with street shoes for seven days.
- 90% of the curing takes place within 24 hours, but care should be taken for the first two weeks until the floor has fully hardened. Light furniture can be replaced in this time ( we recommend protective felt pads). Avoid dragging furniture as it may scratch the surface of your floor.
- Heavy items such as fridges should be moved carefully ensuring they do not scratch your new floors.
- Wait two weeks before laying rugs.
Please note
- You may like to consider alternative accommodation during the job. Remember you won't be able to walk on the floor and the fumes of solvent based finishes are vary strong. The job normally takes three to four days depending on the weather conditions. You can walk on the floor 24 hours after the final coating.
- Do not expect removal of deep cuts such as those from carpet trimming knives or deep gouges in the boards.
- Do not expect removal of stains from within the boards and around nail holes such as animal urine and water marks.
- Do not expect to fill gaps between the boards. If we fill these gaps, subsequent shrinkage and expansion in the timber will cause cracking in the filler.
- Do not expect boards damaged by borers to have the same gloss level as those in good condition. Myflooring offer a special service for borer-damaged Baltic pine - contact us for information.
- Do not expect any areas filled with putty to have the same feel as the timber after application of coatings.
- Myflooring uses premium sanding machinery which is fitted with dust collecting equipment and our professional sanders will endeavour to clean dust away by vacuuming and wiping down surfaces. However it is impossible to totally eliminate dust from most flooring jobs, especially involving sanding. so you will find:
- Some dust particles will settle on your newly finished surface.
- There will be an amount of dust throughout the rest of the house. - Any silicone or silicone based product which comes into contact with the floor after sanding and prior to any of the three coats of finish will cause rejection of the coating. Silicone is often found on the footwear of plumbers and glaziers.
- Despite the best efforts of our careful sanding professionals, you may find slight markings on skirting boards from contact with the edging machinery. That is why we recommend to leave painting the skirting boards until after the floors are finished if possible.
Copyright (c) 2008 Myflooring. All rights reserved. Designed by Jason Lee, the flooring professional.